Any tips or advice on break in period?

aamike68

aamike68

New member
Hey guys and gals. I have about 50 miles on my 22 champ edition, and I've noticed my cruising rpm's are about 3k. The manual says not to stay in the same rpm range for too long, but damn near every time I look down that's the range I'm in. Much lower than that and I'll start lugging it and higher seems like I'm over revving it (even though red line is way up to 8500) am I just over thinking it? This is the first new vehicle I've ever owned, I just don't want to screw anything up. I want it to last a lifetime.
 
Charliemurphay

Charliemurphay

Well-known member
What max said. Vary the rpms (no long highway steady stretches) and wind it out more. Afterburner kicks in around 4500rpm so get up there.
 
Charliemurphay

Charliemurphay

Well-known member
No specific RPM specified, this is straight out of the owners manual. Don’t go bouncing it off the limiter and generally follow this and you’ll be fine.
IMG_8867.jpeg
 
aamike68

aamike68

New member
much appreciated man, ill just ride the thing then, I definitely need to stretch its legs, I dont think ive had it over 5.5k rpm yet, be safe out there
 
K

kungfoojesus

Member
I do the wrong thing to every car and bike I buy them all new cuz I’m lucky to be able to (pullout game strong).

I murder them mile 3 or so. I run the motors full send up each gear then decelerate no brake through each gear.

So 1, then engine brake through 1. Then 1>2, engine brake down from top of 2 to 1. Then 1>2>3, engine brake third down to 2. Then 1 2 3 4, engine brake 4 down to 3, etc etc.

I don’t run top gear this way but all gears under the top gear. The only automatic I’ve ever owned is my 2019 sprinter 3500 so I didn’t bother doing this with it because Mercedes diesel is a tractor imo.

I’ve never had a motor burn a drop of oil until it gets extremely extremely high mileage depending on what that is per motor. A few motors I’ve owned are known to burn oil by literally everyone yet none of mine ever did.

This is probably bad advice but this is what I always do because the guy that taught me to rebuild my first 5 motors told me to.

He taught me the rings seat in the first 50 miles and don’t bother doing this if you’re past that point. He claims you need maximum pressure to set the grooves then maximum vacuum to pull the metal out of the cylinder, hence the full send acceleration full send deceleration on each brand spanking new motor.

Many people argue I’m a moron because technology has changed but last I checked the motors are blasted at the factory before shipping out so they already did what I’m doing too/

If break in procedure (per manual) was more than a liability issue they’d basically set the computers to limit and break motors in, if the technology really had changed so would big brother, imo.

It’s a new motor it’s covered by warranty I dunno if it shits the bed from me doing this I probably am covered? Dunno what the harm is tbh.

I’d rather listen to a pro stock machinist than a manual so I’m doing it my way but it’s your motor your life your risk your money.

I don’t know if FTR motors burn oil but mine doesn’t burn a drop in 5,000 mile intervals I run. I know I know I should go 7500 it’s just I got lucky idc about the planet when I’m in bike mode (I mean I’m burning resources for fun) and it’s not a financial issue for me.

I’m old I’ve owned a lot of factory new motors and they all made it to 120-150k on cars and 50k on bikes. I drive 30k miles a year and ride about 10k-20k cuz I got lucky and retired at 35. All my track rebuild motors run just fine only had a few bad rebuilds and oil bubbles over the decades take fresh builds from me.

They don’t burn oil (well I mean the tracked ones do but it’s more like they coke the oil off…) My FTR hits a tidge or few over 150mph on a 17t 43t on 19/18 w/trail scorps gps verified at 600ft up so I dunno I guess that’s note worthy too from light reading I did around here.
 
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